Day 4: December 14, 1999    

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Ferrara Castle FERRARA, ITALY - The guide book warned that the Ferraresi were "bike-aholics" and it's true - everyone rides bikes, even perfectly-coiffed businesswomen in high-heels and short skirts, balancing an umbrella in one and and steering with the other.

Ferrara's only real claim to fame is the giant castle (Castello Estense) right in the middle of downtown. The Renaissance d'Este family, heavy-handed rulers, built the castle not to Ferrara Castle ward off foreign invaders but to protect themselves from their subjects.

The adjacent Cattedrale di San Giorgio (above) is circled by intricately (and irregularly) carved pillars.

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